This short clipper cut hairstyle with a textured top for women is very popular, with barbers cutting more of these versatile cuts each day. A few years ago, Miley Cyrus shocked everyone when she cut her hair off a few years ago, but when done correctly, these haircuts look incredibly stylish. When cutting this style, be sure to leave a natural feminine outline (rougher outlines might appear too harsh on smaller facial structures.) For this cut, a few different barbering techniques are extremely important to deliver on this hairstyle. They include: barber shear over comb, straight razor over comb, thinning shear over comb, clipper over comb, and clipper blending.
Making the Cut
To begin the haircut start on the top. Pick up a center section starting in the front and over-direct to the middle of the ear leaving the hair longer in the front. Work all the way back to the crown making sure to leave the hair longer in the crown. Repeat this step on each side of the center guide making sure to keep your fingers parallel to the floor. This will ensure a square shape so there is weight in the corners.
Texturize the top using a 23 tooth thinning shear so you don't take too much hair out. Use the same technique as the barber shear. Start ⅓ of the way down on the shaft of the hair. Close the scissor 3 times while lifting the shear upward. This will create movement.
Horseshoe off the top, preparing the sides and back for clipper over comb. Create graduation using the parietal length as a guide. Use the clipper-over-comb technique with a detachable clipper similar to the oster classic 76, Andis BGRC, Andis MVP, Oster Octane, Andis Supra ZR and a 1 ½ blade. This particular blade is very forgiving and will avoid leaving clipper marks due to the length of the teeth and the width of the blade. This works especially well with light colored hair and fine hair.
Using slow strokes, clipper up the sides and back of the head. Make sure when you get to the top you take an imaginary line straight up in the air until you run out of hair. This will create a fading and blending effect into the top so you do not have any heavy lines of demarcation to blend out. Complete this step all of the way around the head. While you have the 1 ½ blade on the detachable blade clipper, start the outline of the haircut using a scooping motion to begin creating the tapered finish. This will leave a soft feminine outline for the particular style instead of a tight taper or lining of the outline with a finishing clipper.
If the hairline is thick you can use an adjustable clipper in the open position and halfway closed position as long as you drop the clipper down low enough on the neck leaving the hairline soft. Just make sure to get any fuzz off the neck by the collar if there is hair growing there.
Texturize the parietal area and top further with the straight razor over comb technique. This is just like the scissor over comb technique except you are using a straight razor. Use the same steps as on the top. Take a center section with the comb halfway down the shaft of the hair and move the straight razor quickly so it does not pull. Also, by moving the razor quickly and the comb quickly you control how much weight you take out of the hair. When using the straight razor-over-comb technique in the parietal area make sure to keep the comb parallel to the sides and back. This will leave the necessary weight at the round of the head for the style.
After you have finished the cut, you need to spend some time styling the new style. To style this haircut, make sure the hair is completely dry before applying product. The hair will stand up and get more of a messy look if you use a hair dryer blow the hair forward first and the back. Getting the heat down to the roots will lift the hair and bring out the texture. Using a blow dryer dry the hair forward, to the side, and then from front to back. This client likes a matte or dry finish which is perfect for a short female clipper cut hairstyle. Try a product like the Zorian of New York Shaping Paste or other similar paste. Take a full fingertip portion out of the jar and emulsify in your hands. Rub throughout the hair by pushing it forward first and then back getting the product down to the roots for extra hold. Style to your desired messy look with or without a slight part.
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Greg Zorian is a third-generation barber with over two decades of experience behind the chair and as an educator. His work has been featured in numerous publications including Milady Standard of Professional Barbering Textbook and DVD series, Modern Salon Magazine, First Chair Magazine, Modern Salon Learning, Shop Modern Salon, Milady Pro, Travel and Leisure Magazine, Four Seasons Magazine, and the Rachel Ray show. Greg has a full-service education company featuring live seminars and online education via the web-based platformwww.HowToCutHair.tv He also recently developed the Zorian of New York (www.ZorianOfNewYork.com) specialty men’s grooming line of haircare products. To learn more about Greg, please visit http://www.gregzorian.com/.